My blog

Tag: Food reviews

  • Ronel Lehmann reviews Jeremy King’s new restaurant Arlington: “an inspirational overcoming of adversity.”

    Arlington Restaurant Review: A Delightful Dining Experience with Jeremy King, by Ronel Lehmann

     

    When Karin Stark, wife of the late Dave Allen, described how life was without her comedian husband, she movingly said: “It’s like being a very long way from home.” Those words always struck a chord with me. To an avid restaurant goer, it felt the same, only this time on a happier occasion to be greeted by Jeremy King in his new abode, Arlington in St James’s.

    I had to research whether there had ever been a battle of Arlington. Indeed, there had, at the time of the American Civil War. The Arlington National Cemetery is also the final resting place for many of the United States’ greatest heroes, including more than 300,000 veterans of every American conflict, from the Revolutionary War to Iraq and Afghanistan.

     

    The reason for my own sudden conflict was learning that my own Editor had wanted to visit Arlington and write a review, and I had unintentionally usurped him.

    My marketing director guest had arrived just before me, although I wasn’t late, and she was by then well tucked into a small table facing other diners. I had the window outside view, although I was totally focussed on the dazzling finish of the interior, with its new tablecloths, black furniture, polished steel, mirrors, lighting and framed prints.

    The menus arrived and felt immediately comforting. It was a Monday lunch, the start of a new week and we both decided to decline wine. For our starters, we ordered Plum Tomato and Basil Galette and the Spinach and Ricotta Tortelloni. I felt the infusion of wild garlic in the tortelloni which was served warm.

    The main courses of Risotto Nero and Chicken Milanese, Rocket, Parmesan followed suit. My own chicken was beautifully flavoursome. If I am honest, I struggled to finish the huge portion. It was at that moment that I noticed the teeth of my guest opposite. Her mouth had turned completely black. I felt that I needed to do the honourable thing and gently alert her. She was shocked and her white serviette also began to turn black as she delicately wiped her mouth to try and remove traces of the squid ink. At moments like these, we could only laugh together, as I thought that Dracula had arrived.

     

    After the drama of the risotto, we decided to pass on the puddings but enjoy an expresso coffee with some chocolate truffles. Readers will know that I have a sweet tooth and my big eyes noted the temptations of Cappuccino Crème Brûlée, Mousse aux Deux Chocolats, Hokey Pokey Coupe, Treacle Tart with Cornish Clotted Cream, Scandinavian Iced Berries with White Chocolate Sauce, Tarte Tatin with Cinnamon Ice Cream and Rhubarb Crumble with Custard.

    Leaving the restaurant was a bit like old times. You feel valued and don’t receive such a personal and caring gratitude expressed like it anywhere else. Jeremy and I reminisced about what happened to him before. I told him that he was inspirational overcoming adversity and making such a grand return. His long-standing commitment and service to his diners is legendary.

    As I walked away, I remembered Dave Allen again. He once said “You wake to the clock, you go to work to the clock, you clock-in to the clock, you clock out to the clock, you come home to the clock, you eat to the clock, you drink to the clock, you go to bed to the clock, you get up to the clock, you go back to work to the clock… You do that for forty years of your life and you retire — what do they fucking give you? A clock!”

     

    I hope the King of Arlington continues to reign over us and never retires.

  • Saison Review by Ronel Lehmann: “If only our politics could be as sweet as this’

    Saison Restaurant Review, by Ronel Lehmann

     

    It was absolutely bucketing down. There was only one thing for it. My guest was coming from the Palace of Westminster, and it seemed sensible to book a table with the shortest stroll to the Old War Office. This is one of the great buildings from the Edwardian Age, originally completed in 1906 and recently reincarnated as Raffles, with an eye watering refurbishment.

    Having parted with my umbrella, I arrived a few minutes early in this Mediterranean all-day dining atrium. The waiter was quick and attentive and sparkling mineral water was immediately served. I decided to use the wine list to cover the uplighter spotlight which was beaming from the floor right in between me and my companion.

    The first thing that I noticed after my retina had adjusted was my side plate appeared to be used. On closer inspection, the waiter explained that this was the design of the plate to incorporate the yellow splashings of citrus. After the reassurance that it wasn’t uric acid, I felt able to place my freshly baked focaccia on the plate. The focaccia was so airy and melted in the mouth with a dunking of olive oil.

    Over the years, my surname has been refashioned as lemon, layman, leeman and lenor, and the table theme continued with a fresh lemon and lime decoration in keeping with the celebrated Argentine Chef, Mauro Colagreco’s philosophy, and approach to seasonal cuisine.

    We elected to have a main course only. Parliamentarians are under pressure to be able to vote at short notice and the ravioli dish was hastily ordered. The presentation of the Pumpkin Ravioli was exquisite, small wheels of patterned pasta, roasted chestnut, more lemon confit, and winter black truffle. We were hungry and didn’t notice that parmesan wasn’t offered. The seasonal leaves described as a Crate to Plate Salad with herb vinaigrette was a colourful accompaniment to the ravioli.

    By this time, we had looked at the other tables and had begun to recognise other notable Members of Parliament and strategists deep in conversation.

    Rather than be distracted further, we decided to share the Citrus Tart and lemon leaf ice cream. When it arrived a reduction of fruits and herbs were gently poured over the pudding. I was thinking if only our politics could be as sweet as this, and then why did we share, when overcome by such a rich and divine lemon taste. The espresso cup was served in a cacophony of colours together with a small freshly baked biscotti.

     

    Before we left the Attrium, there was time for a photograph. This place is Instagram heaven and I suspect that the waiters are getting used to being paparazzi. If there was a criticism after the faultless cuisine and service, the piped music didn’t match the grandeur of the establishment. I am reminded of the famous quote “Winter passes and one remembers one’s perseverance.” It is a bit like that, I might visit Saison again in the Spring.

     

    To book go to: https://www.raffles.com/london/dining/saison/

  • Chelo Review by Ronel Lehmann: “the welcome doesn’t live up to the quality of the food”

    Chelo Review by Ronel Lehmann

    I was invited to Jin Kichi, a Japanese restaurant in Hampstead. I always like on such occasions to drink hot saké, wine made by fermenting rice which has been polished to remove the bran. During our discussion about the cuisines that we most enjoy, my host mentioned another restaurant which I hadn’t heard of: Chelo, which serves Persian food. I made a note to try it.

    Chelo is based in Maida Vale, it can just about at a squeeze seat 13 people on four tables inside and has a buzzing community which doesn’t seem to mind sitting outside under heaters adjacent to the pavement. I had made a reservation for two and managed to park right outside the restaurant.

    There was only one available table inside and after having confirmed our name, we were seated by the window. Then came a warning that the table was required within 90 minutes which was suddenly discourteously downgraded to one hour and telling us that we had booked outside.

    I explained that we were expecting to be seated inside and wouldn’t be moving from our comfortable chairs. The waiter did apologise for any confusion and the menus were provided somewhat in haste. Looking at the other diners’ table spreads and the continuous barrage of takeaway drivers collecting food, we were clearly in for a freshly prepared treat.

    We ordered Zeytoon, marinated mixed olives and they didn’t disappoint. As soon as these had arrived, our other chosen dishes followed in quick succession, including Mast Khiar, yogurt, cucumber and mint dip, Truffle Olovieh, potato salad with chicken, pickled cucumber and mayonnaise, Shirazi Salad, chopped cucumber, tomato and onion with lemon and oil dressing, hummus, chickpea and tahini dip with extra virgin olive oil, Kashk Bademjian, grilled aubergine, caramelised onion, yoghurt, walnuts and mint, and naan bread.

    I must admit the hummus was delicious, but I found it a bit over drenched in olive oil. No sooner had we finished our starters, Tahchin Morgh was served, a chicken fillet de-skewered with saffron rice. We elected not to have the dish baked and topped with Zereshk, silvered pistachios and almonds.

    There was no room for desserts, in fact we had run out of time. The bustle of collections and new hungry diners queuing outside, meant that we could not really overstay our allotted time slot. This is a wonderful restaurant. The food is prepared with a good deal of care, and I could see why it is so popular. It isn’t a place where you can have a leisurely meal. The accommodation is completely outstripped by demand.

    I think that the staff are under extreme pressure to ensure that as many people can get served as possible. This means that the welcome doesn’t live up to the quality of the food, which is a shame. I couldn’t fault what we ate or the service, but just wish that we hadn’t been so rushed. You couldn’t move away from the front door which reminded you when ajar with a cold draft blowing, that you would soon have to be on your way. As we left, my mind raced back to Jin Kichi and the warmth of the carafe of hot saké.